Friday, 8 April 2011

Certified Gangsta V13 FA

Today i decided to take advantage of the weather to go try my project in Edelweiss. A couple days ago, i broke the key hold on the problem and i was so pissed because i really wanted to do this thing. So i decided to try to glue the hold back on. 
The line is pretty steep 75-80 degree overhanging with horrible edges. It start on a undercling with a good foot hold .Then you have to do a big move to a slopey edge with the left hand .After that comes the first crux, a bump with the right hand to a flat edge to make room for a toe hook for your right foot. Then, you move your right hand to a horrible spike and finish with a big deadpoint on a good edge . The hardest move is controlling the swing .

This is by far my hardest problem to date. It took me 5 days of work to complete . I am so psyched right now. One more week of training before Nationals, after that i will set base camp in Val-David !

Tuesday, 5 April 2011

Eastern Bouldering Regionals

My First post!
Last week i competed in the Eastern Bouldering Regionals. I manage to finish in 1st place. At first i was kind of scared, because i just started climbing 2 weeks prior the competition, after taking 3 months off climbing. Outch!!! I was surprise because i qualified in first place, that really help my gained confidence. Finals were great. I was really happy to be competing in my home gym and seeing some old friends. 
Two more weeks before Nationals in Toronto. See you all down there!